{"id":229,"date":"2022-06-25T14:30:00","date_gmt":"2022-06-25T14:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sartorial-matters.com\/?p=229"},"modified":"2022-11-21T11:49:43","modified_gmt":"2022-11-21T11:49:43","slug":"howards-paris-mon-premier-costume-sur-mesure","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sartorial-matters.com\/en\/howards-paris-mon-premier-costume-sur-mesure","title":{"rendered":"Howard's Paris, my first made to measure suit"},"content":{"rendered":"

Today for my first article, I'm taking you through my experience of ordering my very first made to measure suit!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But before I get to the ordering, and what I chose, let's put it in context.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Context<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

As I already mentioned in my presentation, you know that I fell into the sartorial world like many of us, thanks to Hugo Jacomet's videos. It is therefore quite natural that I started by developing tastes relatively similar to his at the beginning.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Therefore, I started to appreciate full suits, formal shoes, wide lapels, ties. This approach got me started quickly, but it also had its drawbacks. I enjoyed a style that I couldn't really wear every day, although it was totally to my taste. When you're under 20, it's not necessarily easy to wear a full suit and shoes every day. You also lack the opportunity to do so.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some people would say that we should do what we like, regardless of what people think. But I still believe that you have to adapt to the context of what is around you, to a certain extent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The brand<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In order to choose the shop that would make my suit, I once again listened to Hugo Jacomet's advice, and that's how my choice quickly fell on Howard's. I had discovered the shop during a video about their shirts, and when I went to their website, I noticed that they also offered a made-to-measure suit service.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Back then, I had set a budget of 1000 euros, and Howard's seemed to meet all my expectations at the time, so I made an appointment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The 1st appointment<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I went to the first appointment with my family, accompanied by my brothers and my parents, as their opinions were particularly important to me. I was greeted by Quentin, who was in charge of the shop in Paris at the time and who you probably know on Instagram as @quenteu. I was very well received, and I was able to chat with Quentin for several hours. In the end, Quentin advised me to take a few days to think about the two fabrics I was hesitating between.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The 2nd appointment<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

So, I went back to Howard's two days later, quite certain of my choice. And as Quentin pointed out to me, you never regret your choice because you won't see how the costume would have looked if it had been made with the other fabric anyway. After having clearly defined what I wanted, we were finally able to start the customisation phase of my suit. \u201cThe funny part\u201d as Quentin would say.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I went for a double-breasted suit, with 12 centimeters lapels, a structured shoulder, 3 seasons blue Vitale Barberis Canonico fabric, flap pockets, and 1 millimeter AMF, if I remember correctly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"\u00e9paule
Structured shoulder and 12 centimeter lapels<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"tissu
3 season fabric<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\n
\"poche
Flap pocket<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"couture
AMF stitch<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

And finally, an aubergine lining. I chose brown horn buttons and 4 kissing buttons on the sleeves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"doublure
Aubergine lining<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"boutons
Horn buttons<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

For the trousers, I took French (forward) pleats, side tabs, an extended waistband with a single loop, no hem, and a slanted finished bottom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
\"pince
French pleats and extended tab<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"ajusteurs
Side adjusters<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"bas
Slanted trousers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

I left delighted, and eager to get my suit, which was due to be delivered 4 weeks later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The 3rd appointment <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

A month later or so, I get the phone call I was looking forward to: \"your suit is ready to be picked up at the shop\". A week passed and I finally found the time to go to the shop with enough time to enjoy the experience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Quentin was not there that day and I was welcomed by Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Costa, founder of Howard's.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We chatted for a while and then quickly moved on to the fitting of the suit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric had warned me that a first made-to-measure suit was never perfect, and that each time I placed an order I had to adjust a few details to get it just right. However, for a first suit, Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric was surprised to see that the suit was close to perfection.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The fact that I am a size 48, and that the fitting jacket already looked good on me, helped make the process easier. The alterations to be made to the fitting jacket were not substantial.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"costume
The suit worn<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

During the fitting, I was delighted with the way the suit looked and felt, and it took me a good hour before I finally decided to take it off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How I feel, a year later <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In May 2022, it has been a year since I owned the suit. The least we can say is that in 1 year, my tastes have changed a lot. Indeed, all the purchases, or almost, that I made a year before, have been resold or I stopped wearing. My style has become much more classic, with looser cuts, longer jackets, high waists, and lots of odd jackets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Obviously a wardrobe is built over time to be representative of a taste, and like many, some of my previous purchases no longer reflect my tastes and the evolution of these.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

However, this Howard's suit is one of those purchases that I do not regret. Indeed, Quentin had perfectly anticipated my tastes and their evolution by directing me towards a more classic style at the time. The ankle opening seemed wide to me at the time, and today I would have gone even wider!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Of course, if I had to do it again today, I would change some measurements, like the length of the jacket, the height of the waist, or the general width of the trousers. But when I made the suit, Quentin insisted that the measurements were quite classic, so it's really not far from my current ideal!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I would like to thank Howard's for my first experience in tailoring, and especially Quentin who gave me the best advice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

See you soon for a new article.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Aujourd\u2019hui pour mon premier article, je vous propose de vous emmener dans mon exp\u00e9rience de la commande de mon tout premier costume sur mesure ! Mais avant d\u2019en arriver \u00e0 la commande, ce que j\u2019ai choisi, il faut remettre dans le contexte. Le contexte Comme je l\u2019ai d\u00e9j\u00e0 mentionn\u00e9 pr\u00e9c\u00e9demment lors de ma pr\u00e9sentation, vous n\u2019\u00eates […]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":316,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"\n

Aujourd\u2019hui pour mon premier article, je vous propose de vous emmener dans mon exp\u00e9rience de la commande de mon tout premier costume sur mesure !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mais avant d\u2019en arriver \u00e0 la commande, ce que j\u2019ai choisi, il faut remettre dans le contexte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le contexte<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Comme je l\u2019ai d\u00e9j\u00e0 mentionn\u00e9 pr\u00e9c\u00e9demment lors de ma pr\u00e9sentation (ici), vous n\u2019\u00eates pas sans savoir que je suis tomb\u00e9 dans l\u2019univers sartorial comme beaucoup d\u2019entre nous, gr\u00e2ce aux vid\u00e9os de Hugo Jacomet. C\u2019est donc assez naturellement que j\u2019ai commenc\u00e9 par d\u00e9velopper des go\u00fbts relativement similaires aux siens, \u00e0 mes d\u00e9buts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

J\u2019ai donc commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 appr\u00e9cier les costumes complets, les souliers formels, les revers larges, les cravates. Cette approche m\u2019a permis de m\u2019initier vite, certes, mais a aussi apport\u00e9 son lot d\u2019inconv\u00e9nients. J\u2019appr\u00e9ciais un style que je ne pourrais pas vraiment porter tous les jours, bien qu\u2019il soit totalement \u00e0 mon go\u00fbt. Quand on a moins de 20 ans, ce n\u2019est pas forc\u00e9ment facile de porter un costume complet et des souliers tous les jours. On manque aussi d\u2019occasions de le faire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Certains diraient qu\u2019il faut faire ce qui nous plait, peu importe de ce que les gens pensent. Mais je reste persuad\u00e9 qu\u2019il faut s\u2019adapter au contexte de ce qui nous entoure, dans une certaine mesure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La marque<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Pour choisir l\u2019enseigne qui r\u00e9aliserait mon costume sur mesure, j\u2019ai encore une fois \u00e9cout\u00e9 les conseils de Hugo Jacomet, et c\u2019est comme \u00e7a que mon choix s\u2019est vite port\u00e9 sur Howard\u2019s. J\u2019avais d\u00e9couvert la boutique lors d\u2019une vid\u00e9o parlant de leurs chemises, et en allant faire un tour sur leur site, j\u2019ai remarqu\u00e9 qu\u2019ils proposaient \u00e9galement un service de costumes sur mesure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

J\u2019avais \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque \u00e9tabli un budget de 1000 euros, et Howard\u2019s semblait r\u00e9pondre \u00e0 toutes mes attentes \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque, j\u2019ai donc pris rendez-vous.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le 1er rendez-vous<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Je suis all\u00e9 au premier rendez-vous en famille accompagn\u00e9 de mes fr\u00e8res et de mes parents, leurs avis \u00e9tant particuli\u00e8rement importants pour moi. J\u2019ai \u00e9t\u00e9 accueilli par Quentin, \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque responsable de la boutique \u00e0 Paris, que vous connaissez s\u00fbrement sur Instagram sous le pseudo @quenteu. J\u2019ai \u00e9t\u00e9 super bien accueilli, et j\u2019ai pu discuter avec Quentin pendant plusieurs heures. \u00c0 la fin, Quentin m\u2019a conseill\u00e9 de prendre quelques jours de r\u00e9flexion pour choisir entre deux tissus entre lesquels j\u2019h\u00e9sitais.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le 2\u00e8me rendez-vous<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Je suis donc retourn\u00e9 chez Howard\u2019s deux jours plus tard, certain de mon choix. Et comme me l\u2019a fait remarquer Quentin, on ne regrette jamais le choix car de toute fa\u00e7on, on ne verra pas le rendu du costume s\u2019il avait \u00e9t\u00e9 fait avec l\u2019autre tissu.\u00a0 Apr\u00e8s avoir bien cern\u00e9 ce que je souhaitais, on a enfin pu commencer la phase de personnalisation de mon costume.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je suis donc parti sur un costume crois\u00e9, avec des revers de 12 centim\u00e8tres, une \u00e9paule structur\u00e9e, un tissu Vitale Barberis Canonico bleu 3 saisons, des poches \u00e0 rabat, une couture AMF \u00e0 1 millim\u00e8tre (si je me souviens bien), et une doublure aubergine. J\u2019ai choisi des boutons en corne marron et 4 boutons sur les manches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pour le pantalon, j\u2019ai pris une pince fran\u00e7aise, des ajusteurs lat\u00e9raux, une ceinture \u00e9tendue avec un passant unique, pas d\u2019ourlet, et un bas de pantalon fini en biais.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je suis ressorti ravi, et press\u00e9 de r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer mon costume, dont la livraison \u00e9tait pr\u00e9vue 4 semaines plus tard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le 3\u00e8me rendez-vous <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Un mois plus tard, \u00e0 quelques jours pr\u00e8s, je re\u00e7ois le coup de t\u00e9l\u00e9phone que j\u2019attendais avec impatience\u00a0: \u00ab\u00a0votre costume est pr\u00eat \u00e0 \u00eatre r\u00e9cup\u00e9r\u00e9 en boutique\u00a0!\u00a0\u00bb. Une semaine s\u2019\u00e9coule et je trouve enfin le temps d\u2019aller \u00e0 la boutique avec suffisamment de temps pour appr\u00e9cier l\u2019exp\u00e9rience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Quentin n\u2019\u00e9tait pas l\u00e0 ce jour-l\u00e0 et j\u2019ai \u00e9t\u00e9 accueilli par Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Costa, fondateur de la boutique Howard\u2019s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On a discut\u00e9 quelques temps, puis on est vite pass\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019essayage du costume.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric m\u2019avait pr\u00e9venu qu\u2019un premier costume en sur mesure n\u2019\u00e9tait jamais parfait, et que forc\u00e9ment \u00e0 chaque commande on ajustait quelques d\u00e9tails pour arriver \u00e0 l\u2019id\u00e9al. Cependant, pour un premier costume, Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric \u00e9tait surpris de voir que le costume \u00e9tait proche d\u2019\u00eatre parfait.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le fait que je fasse une taille 48, et que la veste d\u2019essayage \u00e9tait d\u00e9j\u00e0 tr\u00e8s bien sur moi, ont particip\u00e9 \u00e0 rendre le processus plus facile. Les modifications \u00e0 apporter sur la veste d\u2019essayage n\u2019\u00e9taient pas cons\u00e9quentes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lors de l\u2019essayage, j\u2019\u00e9tais donc ravi du rendu du costume, et il m\u2019a fallu une bonne heure avant de me d\u00e9cider \u00e0 l\u2019enlever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mon avis, 1 an plus tard <\/h2>\n\n\n\n

En mai 2022, \u00e7a a fait 1 an que je poss\u00e8de ce costume. Le moins qu\u2019on puisse dire c\u2019est qu\u2019en 1 an, mes go\u00fbts ont extr\u00eamement chang\u00e9. En effet, tous les achats, ou presque, que j\u2019ai effectu\u00e9s un an auparavant, ont \u00e9t\u00e9 revendus ou sont au placard. Mon style est devenu beaucoup plus classique, avec des coupes plus amples, des vestes plus longues, des tailles bien hautes, et beaucoup de d\u00e9pareill\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c9videmment une garde-robe se construit dans le temps pour \u00eatre repr\u00e9sentative d\u2019un go\u00fbt, et comme beaucoup, certains de mes achats pr\u00e9c\u00e9dents ne refl\u00e8tent plus mes go\u00fbts et l\u2019\u00e9volution de ceux-ci.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cependant, ce costume Howard\u2019s fait partie des achats que je ne regrette pas. En effet, Quentin avait parfaitement anticip\u00e9 mes go\u00fbts et leur \u00e9volution en m\u2019orientant vers un style plus classique \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque. L\u2019ouverture \u00e0 la cheville me paraissait large \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9poque, et aujourd\u2019hui j\u2019aurais fait encore plus\u00a0!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Certes si c\u2019\u00e9tait \u00e0 refaire aujourd\u2019hui je modifierais quelques mesures, comme la longueur de la veste, la hauteur de la taille, ou la largeur g\u00e9n\u00e9rale du pantalon. Mais lorsque j\u2019ai effectu\u00e9 le costume, Quentin a tenu \u00e0 ce que ces mesures soient assez classiques, et donc on n\u2019est vraiment pas loin de mon id\u00e9al actuel\u00a0!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je tiens \u00e0 remercier Howard\u2019s pour ma premi\u00e8re exp\u00e9rience dans le sur-mesure, et plus particuli\u00e8rement Quentin qui a \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u2019un conseil absolument sans faille.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 bient\u00f4t pour un nouvel article.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

- Cl\u00e9ment<\/p>\n","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[13],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-229","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-test-de-marques"],"yoast_head":"\nHoward's Paris, mon premier costume sur-mesure - Sartorial Matters<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Aujourd'hui j'ai test\u00e9 pour vous l'offre sur mesure chez Howard's \u00e0 Paris. Quelles sont les erreurs \u00e0 \u00e9viter ? Que choisir ? 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